KOMODO ISLAND, INDONESIA – MARCH 2ND

Our excursion was scheduled for 9:30 so we got up early, had breakfast in our room, showered and got ready for our tender ride to the Island.  Needing to know what I was in for, I tested the weather early only to have my glasses fog up from the humidity the moment I walked onto our balcony. 

Komodo is one of the 17,508 islands that compose the Republic of Indonesia.  It is 200 miles from Bali.  The island is known as the habitat of the Komodo dragon, the largest lizard on earth.  Komodo Island is the largest island in Komodo National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  It has a population of approximately 2,000 people and shared with approximately 1,300 dragons, a population that has increased and decreased over the years.  Only 922 islands are permanently inhabited and Indonesia only has names for only 8,844 islands in the world’s largest archipelago.

A tidbit of trivia:  Famed naturalist Alfred Wallace wrote of the dragons in 1869, but not too many people read the scholar’s work.  In 1911, an American pilot flew, at low altitude, over Komodo and became the first known Westerner to see these reptiles.  In 1926, the American adventurer, Douglas Burden, heard stories from Indonesian pearl divers about the dragons.  He organized an expedition to the fortress island, bringing back two large and dead reptiles.  Later, he met with friend and film producer, Merian C. Cooper.  Entranced, Cooper changed the protagonist from a giant lizard to a giant ape, added Fay Wray, some dinosaurs and produced one of history’s most memorable films, and Michael’s favorite, the 1933 classic “King Kong”. 

The day’s question by our cruise director was, “What American President was given a Komodo dragon as a gift?”  The answer:  President George H. W. Bush from the Indonesian President.  It was given to the Cincinnati Zoo, and, allegedly sired 35 dragons.  It eventually died from an abdominal infection. 

On our tender to the island, I couldn’t help but look out at the remote, exotic island we were approaching with its gorgeous green hills and pink beach.  Remembering Merian Cooper’s fascination with the dragons, I couldn’t help but visualize the giant ape coming over the hill threatening us upon our arrival to his domain. 

We were given very strict instructions before we arrived on the island.  Only passengers with organized tours are allowed on the island.  We were told to expect a 90-minute moderately active walk along a path that would be led by a park ranger together with a guide who would provide us with information about the dragons.  The park ranger carries long sticks with V-shaped pokers to deter attacks.  The dragons can reach lengths of 10 feet and weigh 300 pounds.  They swim and can dive 15 feet deep and climb trees.  Only visits in small groups with experienced tours guides are allowed on the trails. 

While on the tender, Michael made a very astute observation.  We live on an island.  He reminded me that we wake up each morning, I make my breakfast of blueberries, pumpkin seeds and coconut milk while I watch Bill O’Reilly’s daily podcast in my office after I check emails.  The 2,000 people that populate Komodo Island live in wooden and thatched houses built on stilts and wake up each morning figuring out ways to keep out the man-eating reptiles that roam free on this island.  An amazing contrast to our way of life. 

It started to rain as we approached on our tender and came down very hard by the time we made our way on the pier towards the entrance to the Park.  Except for signage along the way to the Park, the Island truly felt and looked prehistoric from a distance.  Even the stairs leading up from the tender to the  pier seemed ancient.  I was happy I brought my umbrella to shield me from the sun but protected me from the downpour we experienced.  We were offered ponchos but Michael reminded me that the plastic would make me even hotter.  Remembering the wise words of Cindy from the other day, “talking about the heat and humidity won’t make it cooler.”  I had dressed for what I expected to be very hot and humid weather and, I must say, I remained fairly comfortable throughout our tour.  We were introduced to our guide, Martin, who lived on nearby Flores island and is Catholic.  Komodo Island’s population is almost entirely Muslim, as was our ranger, Hakeem.  

Martin

Hakeem

After a few people took advantage of the available restrooms, we were provided with water and made our way on the path for our 90-minute walk.  It was a level unpaved path with lots of puddles because of the current rainfall.  We navigated very carefully because the mud was very slippery.  Prior to the tour, we were informed that the dragons were completely sated before our arrival so there really wasn’t any real threat of being attacked.  We learned that the dragons eat only 12 times a year.  They devour about 80% of their weight.  Their digestion is extremely slow because they eat everything they kill, including bones.  Although lots of passengers expressed real or imagined fear of the dragons, with only a long stick carried by the rangers as a deterrent, I never believed Princess Cruises would schedule these tours if there was any possibility of injury to its passengers.  As always, safety of passengers is Princess’s #1 concern. 

Michael and I had seen Komodo dragons at the Woodland Park Zoo in Seattle and at the Denver Zoo and have been fascinated by these amazing modern-day dinosaurs.  We learned lots about them from Martin.  The mating season is from May through August.  Females will not mate with a male unless it fights to the death at least three other dragons.  They lay approximately 15-30 eggs in small mountainous nests that were originally built by birds.   The gestation period is the same as humans, approximately 8-9 months, but the mothers, who aren’t particularly maternal it seems, only watch the eggs for approximately three months and then lose interest.  Hasta la vista.  The eggs and resultant babies are left to fend for themselves.  When they hatch, they find refuge in the tops of tree trunks and find insects, geckos, birds and other insects for food.  They remain in the trees until they’re big enough to descend onto the ground when they’re about four years old.  Komodo dragons are cannibalistic so they will eat any protein, including their own kind, which, of course, includes their babies.  They definitely have a “survival of the fittest” mentality.  Because they eat their young and each other, their population continues to fluctuate but we were told they were not an “endangered species”.  

We approached a clearing and saw not one, not two, not three, but FOUR dragons.  Three seemed to be sleeping but one seemed alert and aware of our presence.  The rangers, of course, were there with their sticks and more alert than the dragons themselves.  We took lots of pictures and then, suddenly, a probably younger and smaller dragon, started to approach the area.  Michael took a video of it walking around the area.  It also attempted to climb a tree, which they can do, but this one lost interest after a few minutes.  We were told we were very lucky to have seen so many.  Sightings are not guaranteed we were told several times.  There was a nearby man-made watering hole that was created by UNESCO because the dragons were dying off; Komodo is very dry, with a little rain falling in January.  It’s usually hot and dry with temperatures in the 90s and 100s year-round.  

Nest

Dragon Climbing

We were on our way back to the entrance of the Park when Hakeem, our ranger, spotted yet another dragon.  We carefully and quietly made our way onto another less traveled path and quickly had a look, a photo and turned around being very happy to have seen SIX dragons on our excursion.  Again, we were advised that we were very lucky indeed.  

We learned about various trees in this area, some of which had leaves that, when smashed together with added water, are placed on a dragon bite to help clotting until one can be taken to a hospital.  Although a myth persists that the dragons have excessive bacteria in their saliva that would eventually kill a human, if not eaten by a dragon, the truth is that the dragons are actually venomous.  As our port guide warns, “same tragic end, just a different poison.” 

There are other trees that produce fruit that are used to make diesel fuel of all things, and a lemon scented leaf that wards off mosquitoes.  The palm trees provide palms for Palm Sunday for the Catholics on Flores island.  

We said goodbye to Martin after thanking him for a fantastic tour through this remarkable Park.  Our ranger, Hakeem, took us to the market in search of our refrigerator magnet.  There were two covered areas of long stalls manned by dozens of sellers hoping to sell us wood-carved dragons, pearls, necklaces, batik fabrics, magnets, abalone shell bowls, etc.  I thought the sellers were very aggressive but Michael has a different opinion.  We eventually purchased our magnet for $3.00.  (Although our port guide said the sellers would accept Australian dollars [which I still had], they only wanted US money.  I also bought a little jar, supposedly made on the Island (at least it didn’t have a “Made in China” tag on it), for $10.00.  I initially offered $5.00 for the jar which originally was priced at $15.00.  I was happy. 

Hakeem, who escorted us through the market area with his ever-present stick to keep away any dragons who may have wandered into the more populated area, said goodbye to us at the pier.  Many young children were trying to sell us little carved dragons and jewelry to which we politely said “no, thank you.”  Back on the tender heading towards our ship, a very enterprising young man in a boat approached our tender with more wares to sell.  

I have no idea how these 2,000 people live, what they produce, or how they co-exist with these dragons day to day.  It is truly remarkable and a place I will not soon forget. 

MICHAEL’S OBSERVATIONS:  Well, Leona has done a beautiful job of describing one of the three most memorable places we ever visited in this world, the first being Petra, Jordan, the second, Antarctica, and now the third, Komodo Island. 

So, all during our visit, my mind was busy with wild adventures which often happen since I spend a lot of time in my own reality.  So here it goes:  Having had a chance to wrestle and kill crocodiles in Darwin, and making my own belt which I am now wearing, I thought it would be great to pet and ride a Komodo dragon.  So, I spotted a big fella in the bush and slowly approached him, having talked about wanting to pet one, I thought I would try that first.  He didn’t seem to mind, so I quietly removed my crocodile belt (hoping he wouldn’t notice a distant relative), wrapped it around his neck using it as a lasso and was able to ride him all the way back to the marketplace.  I then removed the belt, patted him on the head and thanked him for a wonderful experience.  I shared this “experience” with some of the other passengers and they just smile, probably thinking I had too much wine for dinner or suffered heatstroke.  Needless to say, this was an amazing day and experience that will not soon be forgotten.