AUCKLAND, NEW ZEALAND – February 12th

We missed Tonga altogether because of the weather in the Pacific so the Captain headed directly from Raiatea to Auckland, New Zealand with an estimated time of arrival at 8 p.m. on Monday, February 11^th. 

On the way there, on the evening of the 10^th, we were able to see a volcanic island somewhere in the Pacific.  From what we were told by some passengers (and we have come to take what we hear with a very small grain of salt), this volcano erupted in 2017.  It’s still smoldering and spewing ash.  Michael was able to take some pictures;  I had never seen a volcano that is still active like this one.  

We were on our balcony as we approached Auckland on Monday evening and we could see the skyline from a distance.  As soon as we got closer and closer, we began to see various watercraft, i.e., sailboats, motor boats, cargo ships, and even some type of water skiing with what looked like a parasail (no motorboat), ferries, and other small boats, very similar to Seattle.  I remember thinking the same thing three years ago – Auckland looks very much like Seattle (with a smaller skyline).  The Sky Tower looms over the city just like the Space Needle identifies the city of Seattle.   And, just like in Seattle, when the ferry captain has to blow his horn because craft are in the way of the vessel, our Captain, too, had to blow the ship’s horn to warn other craft to get out of the way.  

The crew was very excited to be coming in early to Auckland because they’d been at sea for six days.  I, myself, love sea days, as do many of the other passengers, but it is extremely difficult for the crew.  Many were planning to disembark at 9:30 p.m. with no curfew. 

The coolness of the air was a welcomed relief from the hot weather we’ve had.  I was upstairs on the top deck taking photos of the ship approaching the harbor with two tugs leading us in on the port side, as well as the pilot we picked up somewhere along the way.  I seldom see where they’re picked up but I don’t think I’ve ever been on a cruise where the ship did not pick up a pilot to direct us into the port.

My banana, ordered for breakfast, came already sliced and it was interesting to learn that beginning about two days before our arrival in Auckland, the ship would not provide fruit that wasn’t cut.  We learned that NZ has extremely strict rules about what can be brought into the country and we were forbidden to take fruits, vegetables, sandwiches and nuts onshore or else risk getting a fine of $400.00.  We only ever take power bars with us and water but I guess lots of passengers collect food from the ship and take it ashore.  Cut up fruit makes it harder to hoard in your purse. 

Auckland is sandwiched between two harbors, and sits on NZ’s North Island across from South Island, separated by Cook Strait.  Population as of 2014 is estimated at 1,413,700.  There are nine sheep to every person in NZ and since there are roughly 4 million New Zealanders, that’s a lot of sheep.  NZ produces 200 pounds of butter and 143 pounds of cheese per person each year.  The Maori people lived here until the British arrival established a colonial capital in 1840.  Just twelve years later, gold fever swept through Auckland which resulted in thousands arriving and by 1900 Auckland was NZ’s largest city.  It is also known as the “City of Sails” and has around 135,000 yachts and launches sitting in its harbor, which is more per capita than any other city in the world.  The currency is the New Zealand Dollar (NZD):  $1.00 US = 1.50 NZD.  Although English is the language in NZ, I’m sure there are many Maori who still speak their own language:  “Kia ora” = hello or thank you; “Haere mai” = welcome; “Ka kite ano” = see you later (bye). 

We had no plans to go out Monday night but planned a somewhat early (for us) start on Tuesday morning.  We had breakfast onboard and left the ship around 10:30. The ship was docked right downtown and Queen Street, the very main street of Auckland, was right there when we got off.  It runs for about two miles and is filled with lots of stores from Gucci (so exclusive that they had a doorman who stood outside and allowed a few people, lined up outside, to enter whenever others left – I had never seen this before), Louis Vuitton to cellphone places to souvenir shops, pharmacies and banks.  There were also many people with signs sitting on the sidewalks asking for money.  We even saw a Hare Krishna person – persons we haven’t seen in the States for years.  

I was on a quest for Manuka Honey products as souvenirs and visiting St. Patrick’s Cathedral.  We had already been to the Sky Tower (the tallest man-made structure in NZ and the Southern Hemisphere) during our last visit here so we enjoyed taking photos of it from different angles during our walk up Queen Street.  Although we didn’t actually see people bungee jumping (which is definitely something you could do), we did see people doing the “sky walk” around the outer ring of the Sky Tower around 640 feet up.  

We stopped in a supermarket because I love to see the different products that are available around the world.  Lots of beers with very colorful labels, Manuka Honey cremes, kiwi fruit with dark chocolate, etc.  There were several enclosed multi-leveled walkways running perpendicular to Queen Street between the buildings that were beautifully lit by natural lighting and housed different clothing shops and lots of hair salons and barbers.  There were flower stands and even public toilets that appeared to be free.  Although vacant, we didn’t pull open the door to see how clean (or not) they were.  We also discovered that Tylenol’s (acetaminophen) equivalent in NZ is Panadol (paracetamol).

After finding all the souvenirs we needed (we finally settled on NZ Manuka Honey and Lanolin (from sheep) hand creams (which ranged from 19 – 22 NZD for a very good price after being offered 25% discount, postcards, magnet, a little furry kiwi, etc., we went to St. Patrick’s Cathedral established in 1842 where I lit a candle.  They even conduct Maori and Ethnic Community Sunday Masses at this Cathedral.  Simple but very beautiful.   We stopped in the gift shop across the way and met Maeve and Ari, two lovely young people manning the shop, where we picked up a couple of items.  

We even took a picture of a huge poster outside the Champions of the World store on Queen Street which showed NZ’s All Blacks soccer team in their traditional Haka pose.  They apparently do this before their games to intimidate their opponents.  

We were getting hungry and headed back towards the ship because we were told that there was a Mexican restaurant just to the right of where the ship was docked.  Well, let me tell you.  We have the absolute worst food karma of any couple.  How many times have we returned from an excursion over the years of cruising and overhear others say, “Oh, we had the most wonderful lunch we’ve ever had in our lives.”  “We just found this little café that was absolutely the best.”  Etc., etc.  When we go out, we never have such luck.  I’ve tried to go to restaurants where I see a lot of locals eat (another myth about the locals know where the best food is) and have always been disappointed.  Michael and I never agree on any restaurant and, when we finally do, it’s usually a bust.  Anyway, needless to say, there was no Mexican restaurant next to the ship.  I finally asked a few construction workers if they knew where Mexicali restaurant was, thinking these big guys would know.  They sent me around the corner only to find what I would call a taco truck.  Before we walked away, I asked them, “do you like the food?” and they replied, “never ate there, don’t like it, too spicy.”  I should’ve known then we were on a wild goose chase.  At the taco truck, I asked another young man who immediately turned on his cellphone, did a search and directed us back to Quay Street and to the left.  Well, off we went.  Wrong again.  Nothing.  Getting weaker by the minute, I asked a security guard who stopped three other guys who told us it was on Victoria Street, way up by the Sky Tower.  We weren’t going to make that trek again. 

Michael then did his own search on his cellphone and said, “there’s a Mexican restaurant 11 minutes away.”  Getting more tired by the minute and my lips turning pale, off we went.  “It’s 6 minutes away.”  “It’s 3 minutes away.”  “It’s just around the corner.”  Finally, we arrived at the restaurant, Mexico Britomart, asked where the coolest place was to sit (inside or out) and our lovely waitress directed us to a table inside just below the fans.  They had lovely different margaritas and I ordered a Peach and Vanilla margarita and Michael ordered his plain.  I immediately went to the restroom to wash my hands and I only mention this because each of the three bathrooms were decorated, literally from top to bottom, with paintings, pictures and photographs of Mexican-inspired images.  One bathroom was decorated completely with Frida Kahlo de Rivera memorabilia.   As a matter of fact, the entire restaurant was uniquely decorated from floor to ceiling this way.  Absolutely the most fantastic Mexican restaurant décor ever.  Even in Mexico, I never saw anything like this.  And, of course, I love the Day of the Dead decorations and one wall had a lovely, probably 4’ x 10’ painting of a female Day of the Dead figure.  There was even a photograph of our favorite wrestler, Mil Mascaras. 

Enough of the ambiance.  How was the food you ask?  We ordered chips and guacamole which were different than back in the States but extremely tasty.  We ordered the quesadillas of chicken in mole coloradito, coriander, sesame, chili, blackened onion crema.  Unbelievable!  What a mixture of incredible tastes.  Unusual combinations of ingredients that created an absolutely wonderful culinary treat.  Along with our margaritas (Michael had two; he wasn’t driving, he says) we agreed that we finally broke our bad food karma!  The waitress, who emigrated from England with her boyfriend, was lovely.  They used to live in the city but it got too hectic so they moved to the suburbs.  She knows how to drive but doesn’t because the Auckland drivers make her too nervous. 

The restaurant featured five separate sauces, including habanero, mango, etc. which were also available for purchase.  The placemat included the following politically incorrect (based on U.S. standards) statement: “Have a happy ending!  Our hot sauces are available separately or in a gift set for you to take home.  Just ask one of our equally hot staff how to get them in your hot little hands.”  Can you imagine a restaurant in the U.S. including that in their menu?  It’s nice to see that the rest of the world isn’t as nuts as some are in the U.S.  Our bill was 68 NZD for two orders of chips and guacamole, quesadillas and three margaritas.  Tipping is not obligatory but appreciated and NZ restaurants do not add service charges to their bills. 

We left the restaurant very happy and headed back towards the ship.  We were in the Britomart precinct with its designer fashion boutiques, bars, eclectic restaurants as well as Tiffany & Co. and Chanel.  A small lovely park also appeared out of nowhere; I relaxed on one of the bean bags in the park while Michael snapped away on his camera.  

Arriving back onboard around 4:30, we remarked what a beautiful day we had.  Great weather, good walking (over 13,000 steps), successful souvenir shopping, nice people (except for those that misled me with directions; actually, they were nice people but weren’t very helpful), and great margaritas and food.  What more could we have asked from our visit to Auckland? 

MICHAEL’S OBSERVATIONS:  Auckland is facing the same problems that many large cities, with a healthy economy, are experiencing.  Rising food costs, housing and services and an influx of homeless people aka druggies and alcoholics, have forced a lot of the young people to have to move out of the city.  It’s the same thing that Seattle is experiencing and I find it disturbing.  Auckland is trying to reduce the problem of cars by increasing their mass transportation.  The current project they’re working on is expected to ease traffic but won’t be completed until 2024.  I had a wonderful time and the best dinner off ship I’ve had in years.