SINGAPORE DAY 2 – MARCH 6TH

The ship was leaving at 1:30 p.m., so we opted for an excursion, “Safari Breakfast at the Zoo.”  Singapore Zoo is a pioneer in the “open zoo” concept where animals inhabit large spaces reminiscent of their native habitat.  The Zoo is home to a social group of 24 orangutans.  It is also home to very rare white Bengal tigers but, unfortunately, they closed the exhibit the day we were there.  The Singaporeans are crazy about plants so, although there are no cages in the Zoo, there are safety barriers usually made of plants, moats, etc.  

We boarded our coach and met our guide, Ryan, who, as most of our guides are, was extremely knowledgeable about Singapore.  Singapore is only 24 km long and 44 km wide or a total of 700 sq. km. and is home to 5.6 million people.  There is twelve hours of sunlight all year round as Singapore is only 1.5 km from the Equator;  freezing cold to the Singaporeans is 55 F.  It also doesn’t have any natural disasters like tsunamis, typhoons, and earthquakes as their neighbors suffer.  The Zoo, at the north end of the island, was built in the Nature Reserve and we were told that there would be no direct contact with the orangutans.   Because their DNA is so similar to ours, there’s concern that the animals could catch any viruses from us.  

On the way to the Zoo, we drove past different suburbs of Singapore.  Like everything in Singapore, it is clean and well managed.  There are “ERPs” which are not called “tollways” (although they are) and which charge “congestion charges” which aren’t called “tolls” (although they are), and change constantly throughout the day depending on the time and traffic.  Sensors track the flow of traffic, the type of car you drive, the time of day, etc.   Payments for these tolls or charges are similar to our EZ passes and are called “cash cards” that can be refilled at the ATM machines.  If you run out of money, you’re charged a 10 SGD administrative charge.  We got the distinct impression from our guide that there is a charge/toll/tax for just about everything in Singapore.  Apparently, the people must not mind because the same political party has ruled Singapore since its independence in 1965. 

We were very surprised to learn that a Toyota Corolla, for example, can cost upwards of 100,000 SGD and carries a 200% import tax and registration fees.  You also must obtain a “Certificate of Entitlement.”  This is to insure vehicle population control.  The government has to issue this permit – and the bidding can entail a cost of 20,000 SGD and allows you to have the car for ten years.  You may get an extension one time only for up to an additional five years.  In other words, there are no cars on the road that are older than 15 years;  that means Michael would not be allowed to drive his 1995 GEO Metro in Singapore.   There is a total of 1 million vehicles (including cars, trucks, etc.) in this country.

Almost everywhere you go in Singapore is high-rise housing.  Low-rise housing comprises only 3% of the housing in Singapore which is for the super rich and cost 5-6 million SGD.  A studio apartment, comprising of 45-50 sq. meters (147-164 sq. ft.) costs 1.5-2 million SGD.  Ninety-eight percent of the high rise apartments are government subsidized and come with a 99-year lease.  So, there is no private ownership.  There’s lots of redevelopment going on, particularly in building multi-story carparks.  If the building you’re in is going to be redeveloped and you have to move, the government compensates you and you’re able to choose another apartment within 2 kms at a subsidized rate;  you can sell your current apartment at the open market price.  Again, there is no private ownership, so you’re basically selling your interest in what’s remaining of the 99-year lease. 

There is lots of rainforest which is used for many purposes including hiking, live fire training and military training; all men must complete two years of full time military service. 

One of the biggest challenges Singapore is facing today is, like so many other places, water.  It currently contracts with Malaysia to provide water but they’ve had their differences and, although the contracts are still in effect until 2061, it is Singapore’s intention to make itself self sufficient and anticipates population growth to 7 million people.  They are using new technologies and although desalination is an option, it is extremely expensive.  They recycle every drop of water, including toilet water which is recycled into what they call “green” or “clean” water.  It contains so minerals so it isn’t used for drinking.  They do combine “green water” with Malaysian water to increase the supply of drinking water. 

When Singapore built the highway we were driving on, they soon realized that they split the rainforest and interfered with the wildlife living there.  They built the “BKE” or wildlife bridge which is 10 m wide and viewed with CCTV cameras.  Apparently, the animals are smart enough in Singapore to cross the bridge rather than the highway. 

We had two options after we had breakfast at the Ah Meng Bistro, named after one of their first orangutans who has since died.  We could explore the zoo on our own or watch an animal show.  We had a pleasant enough breakfast (I’m never crazy about these hosted breakfasts and lunches on excursions but it is what it is) and waited for the orangutans to be brought out for picture taking.  Although we weren’t able to hold one of the little ones, we were able to have our picture taken with them which, of course, was available for purchase and which, of course, we did.  

Afterwards, we decided to wonder around the Zoo ourselves and I immediately went to the area where the remaining orangutans live.  It’s a wide-open space and there were several of these little fellas sitting, climbing and having fun with each other.  In my usual style, I started talking to the little guys in front of us and, instead of getting the usual more positive response (which included the unusual sight of a mama koala coming down out of its tree in Melbourne many years ago after hearing my NY accented voice), one of the orangutans turned around, bent completely over touching his head to the branch and MOONED me!  Michael was ready with the camera and captured this hilarious response!  I could hardly stop laughing.  Perhaps this little guy thought he was insulting me, but I thought it was very funny.  Perhaps not the response he expected.  

Michael was very interested in the reptile area so we saw another Komodo dragon, giant tortoises, snakes, frogs, etc.  

As I mentioned, the Bengal tigers weren’t available that day but we did get to see proboscis monkeys which are great and I couldn’t help but capture a picture of the wall poster with Michael’s comparatively large noise.  

On the way to the entrance to meet our guide, we heard an incredible racket only to discover the noise was coming from two siamang monkeys.  To say they were loud, would be a gross understatement.  Nearby white-faced Saki monkeys were much more subdued.  

We weren’t the ones at the Zoo that day.  There were groups of very well-behaved school children that were also visiting the animals.  As always, there is so much to see and so little time.  Like the Gardens by the Bay, you can spend an entire day at the Singapore Zoo.  I did have my picture taken with the adorable orangutans and got mooned by one so I really couldn’t ask for a better day.  Back onboard, we set sail around 2 p.m. for Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.

MICHAEL’S OBSERVATIONS:    As I stated before, Singapore is a very expensive place.  I can’t imagine what people do for a living in order to generate the kind of income required to simply own a Toyota Corolla and be able to drive it.  I did speak with our tour guide about the cost of these enormous tour buses which I know in the United States can cost upwards of a half a million dollars.  He told me that the tour buses are seldom idle, and, in fact, when our bus returned to the ship, the driver had another assignment waiting for him.  Our tour guide also said he would hate to be a bus driver because, besides the horrible traffic, there is very little parking for these enormous buses.  While always fun to visit, living in Singapore is definitely out of my price range.